Austria City Travel + Tourism Guide: Vienna
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Vienna
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© Wien-Tourismus
/ Robert Alexander Herbst
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- The Austrian Capital, located in the North East near Slovakia,
Hungary and the Czech Republic
- Historical capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
- Cultural, economic and political heart of Austria
- Some of Austria's best nightlife and the world's best classical
music
- Population 1,550,000
- City connected with Mozart's greatest masterpieces
- Innere Stadt is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
- Home to Austria's top soccer clubs, SK Rapid Vien and FK Austria
Wien, and venue for the Euro 2008 Final
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Vienna is a very old city that shows its age,
perhaps not as overtly as, say, Rome, but the things of old stamp
its modern life more strongly here than in, say, Paris or London.
With evidence of human habitation going back 25,000 years, a Celtic
trading post from around 500BC and made a Roman city by 15BC, Vienna
has a history. The very layout of the roads circling most of its
Innere Stadt follows the walls that used to surround it.
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© Wien- Tourismus
/ Daniel Zupanc |
Vienna's glory days started about 550 years ago when it became
the seat of the Habsburg family, rulers of the conglomerate
of states comprising mainly Teutonic and Slavic Europe known as
the Holy Roman Empire. The wealth it attracted and the power
it exercised made it also Europe's center of courtly culture right
up until the start of the 19th century. For the visitor to Vienna,
that imperial legacy is what gives the city its true dazzle. There
are too many awe-inspiring palaces and churches, eye-popping museums,
and horizon-expanding galleries - not to mention theaters, opera
houses, monuments, statues, ruins and reading rooms - to see more
than a fraction of within a week or two.
That's not to say Vienna isn't also modern. The city boasts the first socialist government in Europe. Even before its socialistic First Republic (1918-1934), "Red Vienna" as it was known had been governed by the forward-looking Christian Democrats. But the flavor of that modernity is still decidedly bourgeois as opposed to 'street'. While its art and entertainment life may have caught up with what's happening, outside of certain cutting edge sections of the Gurtel area there is still much about Vienna that is decidedly quaint. Part of what keeps it from being dull, however, is the mix of communities, roughly a quarter of Vienna's population coming from outside of Austria.
Everyone who knows the name Vienna also knows the name Danube.
The city's trademark river (the 'Donau' to locals) runs in a roughly
north-south direction along the city's eastern flank, forming the
border of what there is of sightseeing interest. The only attraction
east of it is the Donaupark on what is effectively the elongated
'stranded island' known as Kaisermuhlen on the river's east bank.
Vienna is fairly compact. Innere Stadt as the center of
the city's 'clockface' lies exactly halfway between the north-eastern
Donauturm Tower in Donaupark (at '2 o'clock') and Schloss Schonbrunn
Palace (at the opposite '8 o'clock' edge of the city on a tract
shared with the zoo) - making for a diameter of just over 9km (5
1/2 miles). Innere Stadt is encircled on three sides by the Ringstrasse
ring road, and on the other by a diversion of the river Danube,
the Danube Canal. Further out is another ring road, the Gurtel,
along which is centered the city's red light district, and also
a lively bar and nightclub scene.
The transport system is a cheap, reliable and efficient combination
of subways (U-Bahn), trams (yes, trams!) and buses. Vienna is also
a very cyclable city, and bicycle rental shops abound.
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© Wien-Tourismus
/ Gerhard Weinkirn |
Most of Vienna's sights are crammed into the Innere Stadt, which
is encircled on three sides by the Ringstrasse ring road, and on
the other by a diversion of the river Danube, the Danube canal.
Further out is another ring road, the Gürtel, along which is
centred the city's red light district, and also a lively bar and
nightclub scene.
Donauturm in Donaupark, and built in 1964, is, at the time
of writing, the city's tallest structure, at 252m (827 feet). We
recommend you start your tour of Vienna here, getting a bird's eye
view of the city and its environs. The view from the top makes it
clear how green Vienna is - almost half of its area (a larger proportion
than any other capital city in Europe) consists of parks, woods
and gardens.
Running to your left and right for 21km parallel with the legendary
Danube is the Donauinsel (Danube Island). It was dredged
up as an anti-flooding measure to create an extra channel called
the New Danube that runs alongside the main river. It is a rollerblading
and cycling - and in summer, sunbathing - haven. Around Donauinsel
U-Bahn subway station are a lot of places to eat, drink and go clubbing.
From there, let's go straight to the center, the Innere Stadt.
Nearly everything Vienna offers the tourist is here. The Innere
Stadt began life as a Roman military camp in 8AD. The town that
developed from it grew into the Vienna of today, and the Innere
Stadt, as the city's heart, is preserved as a World Heritage Site.
In the 16th century it was encircled with defensive walls, which,
although razed in 1857, have left their traces in the Ringstrasse
that circles the district. There is no better way to get a feel
for Vienna than to simply follow the Ringstrasse and gawp - whether
from the No.1 or No.2 Tram, from the seat of a bicycle, or just
in your shoes.
Innere Stadt
Try and end your circuit of the Ringstrasse at Karlsplatz and walk
up the Innere Stadt's main pedestrianized thoroughfare, Karntner
Strasse. 700m on, moving with the crowd past the buskers and street
artists, brings you to Stephensplatz.
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© Wien-Tourismus
/ POPP & HACKNER |
Stephensplatz, with its own subway station, is considered the heart
of Vienna, and is dominated by Stephansdom (St Stephen's
Cathedral). It was long thought that the earliest church on this
site was built during the 11th century, but recent excavations have
shown that there may have been some kind of church as early as the
fourth century. The current gothic marvel dates from 1359, although
there has been substantial reworking over the centuries.
The cathedral has two towers, the 136.7m (448 foot) South Tower which dominates the Vienna skyline, and the 68m (223 foot) North Tower. Steps lead to a viewing platform in the South Tower which offers and excellent panorama of Vienna (9am-5.30pm, 3 euros). There is a lift up the smaller North Tower, which is also home to the 21-tonne Pummerin, the biggest bell in Austria (9am-6pm Mar-Nov, 4 Euros). The North Tower was meant to be as tall as the South, but building had to stop when the Empire's funds ran low.
The cathedral is roofed with strikingly colorful tiles depicting
the eagle of Austria. On the outside of cathedral at the north end
you can find a crucifixion statue known to the Viennese as 'Christ
with a Toothache', and the place where Mozart's
corpse was blessed after his funeral. Inside the cathedral the
catacombs are well worth seeing. They house not only the
remains of plague victims but urns containing certain internal organs
of members of the Habsburg dynasty, too! Guided tours of the catacombs
start every 10-15 minutes between 10 and 11.30am Mon-Sat, and 1.30
and 4.30pm Mon-Sun, and cost 4 euros.
About 500m SW of Stephansplatz is: Hofburg, the Imperial
Palace, or the Summer Residence, of the Habsburg dynasty, and now
the official seat of the Federal President of Austria. The palace
grew over the centuries with no particular plan, each generation
trying to outdo their predecessors. The result is a huge complex
which takes days to explore. The center, and the oldest section,
is the Swiss Courtyard, so named after the Swiss Guards who used
to protect it. The palace is home to numerous attractions including:
Spanische Hofreitschule, The Spanish Riding School is the
oldest riding school in the world. You can see them perform classical
dressage ('equine ballet') at performances, or watch them practice
if you come along at the right time. The performances are often
fully booked and take place irregularly, so check out the website
www.srs.at. Prices vary, ranging from 40-160 euros. The alternative
is to watch them training. Tickets to training sessions are sold
at the Visitor Center, 1 Michaeler Platz (Tue-Sat, 9am-4pm), or
Gate 2, Josefplatz (9am-12pm) and cost 12 euros for an adult.
Schatzkammer, the Imperial Treasury. Imagine the amount
of treasure you could build up ruling half of Europe for more than
half a millennium. It's all here. Gems and jewels worth more than
Premiership football players, and in the Sacred Treasury, fragments
of the True Cross and one of the thorns from Christ's crown (8 euros,
10am-6pm Wed-Mon).
Kaiserappartements, the Imperial Apartments once occupied
by Emperor Franz Josef I (7.50 euros, 9am-7pm).
Mythos Sisi, a museum dedicated to Empress Elisabeth, wife
of Franz Josef I and Austria's most admired Empress (7.50 euros
9am-5pm, 5.30pm Jul-Aug).
Nationalbibliothek, The National (once the Imperial) Library,
contains almost a quarter of a million old books, some of them many
centuries old. Even if you don't have the time or inclination to
start perusing, the library is worth a visit for the stupendously
big and elaborate baroque Grand Hall, or Prunksaal, completed in
1735 and stacked with almost a quarter of a million old, and often
priceless, tomes. From the Michaelertor you can also check out the
Esperanto Musuem dedicated to the would-be international constructed
language invented by the Jewish Pole, L.L. Zammenhof, in 1887. (5
euros, 10am-4pm).
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Neue Burg
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Neue Berg Museums - The New Palace Museums are three museums
under one roof. The Sammlung Aler Musik Instrumente is a collection
of ancient musical instruments. The Ephesus Museum contains artefacts
from the ancient Turkish towns of Ephesus and Samothrace. The Hofjagd
und Rustkammer (Arms and Armor) Museum displays mainly 15th and
16th century weapons and armor (8 Euros, 10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
Museum Fur Volkerkunde, The Ethnology Museum, contains countless
artifacts from non-European civilizations, with an emphasis on South
and Central America. The Museum is closed for refurbishment until
Spring 2007 (www.ethno-museum.ac.at).
Right next door to and south-west of the Museum Fur Volkerkunde
is the Kunsthistorisches Museum, or Museum of Fine of Arts. Facing
it is its architectural twin, the Naturhistorisches Museum,
or Museum of Natural History. Between them is the topiaried Maria
Theresien Platz, named after the powerful and immensely colorful
Maria Theresia, Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, Archduchess
of Austria empress who ruled the Holy Roman Empire for 40 years
from 1740 to 1780. She is said to be one of the few aristocrats
in her age who married for love - a love so strong that legend has
it that she and Francis Stephen managed to break one of their honeymoon
beds. Also, a keen horsewoman, she had the staircases in Bratislava
Castle constructed with a shallow enough gradient to let her ride
her horse up and down them. Her statue dominates the square.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine of Arts) contains
Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities, and a picture gallery which
includes works by Bruegel, Rembrandt and Rubens. This is one of
the most highly rated museums in Europe. (10 euros, 10am-8pm Tue-Sun,
9pm Thurs).
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Natural History Museum
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Naturhistorisches Museum, (Museum of Natural History) directly
opposite it - and virtually indistinguishable from it except for
differences in the statuary on the facade - houses the 25,000 year
old Venus of Willendorf statue (see Austrian
History), along with a fine collection of rocks and pickled
animal parts (8 euros, 9am-6.30pm Thu-Mon, 9pm Wed)
On the south-west side of Maria Theresien Platz is the Museumsquartier
(the former imperial stables) converted into a museum complex only
in 2001, but already one of Vienna's top sightseeing destinations.
It is home to no less than five museums.
The Leopold Museum - a beautiful, airy space full of works
representing the Viennese Secession, Viennese Modernism and Austrian
Expressionism. It is particularly famous for its collection of works
by the Austrian artist Egon Schiele (1890-1918).
MUMOK (the Museum of Modern Art) - a
collection of 20th century art. Some very famous names represented
such as Picasso, Warhol, Johns, and Klee. To be honest, however,
a rather dingy complex after the Leopold Museum, and the Viennese
Actionism section with its obsession with the uglier aspects of
human and animal biology may well spoil your day!
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© Wien-Tourismus
/ Gerhard Weinkirn |
Architekturzentrum Wien (Vienna Architecture Center), Museumsplatz
1.
Regularly updated exhibitions focusing on the architecture of the
20th and 21st centuries, and on the architecture of the future.
Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. Adults/Concessions EUR7/5, under-6s free.
Access:
Subway: U2, U3 (Station "Volkstheater / MuseumsQuartier")
Bus: 48A (Station "Volkstheater / MuseumsQuartier")
Tramway: 49 (Station "Volkstheater / MuseumsQuartier")
Tanzquartier Wien
Founded in 2001, Vienna's cutting edge dance and performance venue, expanding the horizons of dramatic expression. Museumsquartier, Museumsplatz 1
A-1070 Wien
Tel: 43-1-581 35 91
The Albertina has reopened: home of the world's largest
graphic art collection with over a million and a half printed works
and 50,000 drawings. And the Museums-Quartier is the world's eighth
largest cultural complex. Famed for its collection of Albrecht Dürer
drawings, the Albertina also contains works by Bruegel, Bosch, Cezanne,
Da Vinci, Klimt, Matisse, Michelangelo, Picasso, Raphael, Rembrandt,
Rubens and others. The building itself was founded in 1768 and is
named after Albert, an Austrian Duke, who commissioned the building.
Exhibitions are changed every three months and are dedicated to
a particular theme or artist. A must-see on any visit to Vienna.
(tel: 534 83 544)
Outside the city centre
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Schonbrunn Palace
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Schloss Schönbrunn, The Schönbrunn Palace to
the west of the city center was the summer residence of the Habsburgs
and ranks among Vienna's top sights. The original commission by
Leopold I for architect Fischer von Erlach was for a palace bigger
than Versailles, but this was later scaled down to a mere 1441 rooms.
The palace was completed in 1700. Some of the highlights inside
the palace include the Round Chinese Room with a hidden doorway
and the Blue Chinese Room, where Charles I abdicated in 1918,
and the Million Room, named after the amount of money Maria
Theresia spent on decorating it.
The Great Gallery, with its frescoes, chandeliers and mirrors,
was the location for the legendary meeting between Kennedy and Khrushchev
in 1961. There are two different tours around the palace, and a
further range of ticketing options which include various other features
along with the tour. The Imperial Tour takes in 22 rooms and takes
little over half an hour.
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Schonbrunn Palace
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(Adults 8.90 Euros, Children 4.70 Euros, Students 7.90 Euros). Access
by U-Bahn to Schonbrunn or Hietzing Stations.
The Grand Tour takes in 40 rooms, the main extra being some state
rooms used by Maria Theresia and her husband, and takes about 50
minutes (Adults 11.50 Euros, Children 6.00 Euros, Students 10.20
Euros). Both tours include an audio guide. If you want an actual
tour guide, it costs a little extra.
The Palace Gardens are huge and free to enter. Features
include fake Roman ruins, fountains, a maze, and the Gloriette.
The Gloriette was erected in 1775 atop a small hill from where you
can get some of the best panoramic views in Vienna, and now houses
a cafe where you can cool off after the climb up.
Tourist Offices
Vienna Tourist Board Information Office
Albertinaplatz/cnr of Maysedergasse
(right behind the Vienna State Opera)
Open daily 9am - 7pm)
Tourist Information, Vienna Airport
Arrival Hall
Open 7am - 10pm
Getting There
Wien-Schwechat Airport
www.viennaairport.com
Vienna's main airport is 20km to the southeast of town and connected
to City Air Terminal (Landstrasse & Wienmitte U-Bahn) by City
Airport Train (CAT). Journey time is 16 minutes. Alternatively,
take the cheaper S-Bahn to Wienmitte and Wien-Nord.
There are frequent buses to Schwedenplatz in the center taking about
20 minutes and also bus routes to the Sudbahnhof and Westbahnhof.
There are direct flights from Vienna to the UK (London, Manchester,
Birmingham), Ireland (Dublin), Germany (Berlin,
Frankfurt,
Cologne,
Leipzig,
Dortmund,
Dusseldorf,
Hamburg,
Hannover,
Munich,
Stuttgart),
Portugal (Lisbon,
Porto,
Faro,
Madeira
and the
Azores), Moscow,
Kiev, Sydney and many other international destinations. Austrian
Airlines is Austria's national carrier.
Vienna's main station is the Westbahnhof for trains arriving from
the west and north including services from Germany, Switzerland
and France. There are direct services to Munich,
Frankfurt,
Innsbruck,
Klagenfurt,
Salzburg,
and Zurich.
Trains from Italy and the east arrive at Sudbahnhof. Transfer between
the two stations is by tram #18 or S-Bahn to Meidling and then U-Bahn
Line #6.
Vienna's major bus terminal is City Air Terminal (Landstrasse &
Wienmitte U-Bahn).
Getting Around
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© Wien-Tourismus
/ Gerhard Weinkirn |
Getting around central Vienna on foot is no problem though for
covering larger distances the Wiener Linien city transport
system consisting of U-Bahn, S-Bahn, buses and trams is extremely
efficient. The 24-hour or 72-hour Netskarte which allows
unlimited travel on the system. The Wien Card available from
tourist offices allows for unlimited 72-hour public transport and
reduced admission to many of the city's sights. There are also weekly
and 8-day passes - the latter can be used by two people for four
days each.
Vienna's U-Bahn (subway) has five color-coded lines and
runs both above and below ground. The suburban rail network - S-Bahn
- runs to the airport and outlying districts.
Vienna's streetcars or "Bim" as they are known
cover most of the city and are an atmospheric way of getting around.
Check for routes on the stops. Vienna has night bus services
running from approximately 12.30am-5.00am when daytime services
start up.
Bus and tram stops are marked by a green "H" (for
Haltestelle) and display the name of the stop, bus numbers
and destinations, a map of the city transport network and timetables.
There are fewer services on weekends and national holidays.
Bus numbers #1A, #2a and #3A buses pass through
the Innere Stadt: #1A Schottentor-Stubentor, #2A Schwedenplatz-via
Hofburg to Burgring, #3A Schottenring-Schwarzenbergplatz.
Bicycles can be rented at cheap rates from the main train
stations and in Stephansplatz and there are designated cycle paths
crisscrosing Vienna.
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Grand Hotel Wien - dates from 1870, 5-star luxury hotel with
205 rooms.
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Football Teams
Vienna's
football clubs include FK Austria (Austria Vienna) who were
founded in 1911 and play in the 11, 500 capacity Franz Horr Stadion.
One of Austria's most well-known clubs along with rivals Rapid Vienna,
Austria Vienna, the Violetten, were dominant domestically
in the 1970s and made the European Cup Winners Cup Final in 1978.
Famous players to don the violet shirt include the legendary 1930s
Wunderteam star Matthias Sindelar and more recently icon Toni Polster.
To get to the stadium take U-Bahn Line #1 to Reumannplatz in the
south, then tram #67.
SK
Rapid Wien date from 1899 when they were founded by workers
in a hat factory and play in the 17,000 capacity Gerhard Hanappi
Stadium (U-Bahn Line #4 to Hutteldorf). The team in green and white
stripes were the nation's dominant club until the 1930s and only
made a comeback domestically and internationally in the 1980s with
the opening of their then new Hanappi stadium in 1977. Rapid reached
but lost two European finals - the 1985 Cup Winners' Cup Final to
Everton and the 1996 final to PSG. Rapid still hold the record for
most domestic titles and famous former players include Ernst Happel,
Hans Krankl, Herbert Prohaska and Andreas Herzog.
VfB Admira Wacker Mödling began life in 1997 following
the merger of VfB Mödling and SCN Admira/Wacker. The team from
a southern suburb of Vienna play their home games at the 12,000
capacity Bundesstadion Südstadt. Admira had previously merged
with Wacker in 1971. The original Admira were successful in the
1930s and famous for their all black kit and for appearing in Wim
Wender's movie The
Goalkeeper's Fear of the Penalty. Their location outside Vienna
has lead to a lack of a fanbase and the club is now under Iranian
ownership and languishing in the second tier of Austrian football.
First Vienna FC is Austria's oldest club, founded in 1894
by English gardeners working on Baron Rothchild's estate. The team
play in yellow shirts and blue shorts (from Rothchild's horse racing
colors) at the 5,000 capacity Hohe Warte Stadium. Take U-Bahn Line
4 to Heiligenstadt. After their glory days in the late 1920s "Vienna"
now play their football in Regionalliga Ost - the third tier of
domestic Austrian soccer.
Wiener Sportclub (WSC) once beat Juventus 7-0 in the 1958/59
European Cup but like First Vienna, the team in black and white,
have fallen on hard times dropping into the regional leagues and
almost disappearing from view.
The Ernst
Happel Stadium, like England's Wembley, is not used usually
for club games but is Austria's largest stadium, located in the
Prater Park.
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