Austrian Culture: Skiing in Switzerland
Robert Easton
Switzerland is a relatively expensive place to ski. Equipment
hire can be particularly costly, but in return you get some of the
best downhill skiing in the world, and resorts where facilities
are invariably first-rate.
Switzerland's ski resorts offer some of the biggest, highest
and toughest runs in the world. Generally skiing has grown up steadily
around mountain villages, meaning the setting and atmosphere is
very different from the purpose built mega-resorts of France or
the USA. The Alps cover about three fifths of Switzerland's
area, so skiing is available in most regions.
The fact that a lot of Switzerland is quite high means that the
ski season is longer than in other parts of the Alps, generally
lasting from December until late in March in most areas. Of course,
some places are so high that skiing is possible all year round.
A day's ski pass will usually cost something in the region
of 60 Sfr, and equipment hire for the day will probably be about
another 50 Sfr.
Cross-country skiing (Langlauf) in Switzerland is nearly as popular
as downhill, and if you're on a budget it works out to a little
over half the price of downhill.
Virtually every resort has snowboarding and a ski-school, and
plenty of other activities like tobogganing and sometimes zorbing.
Zorbing basically involves strapping someone inside a huge rubber
ball and letting them career down the side of a mountain.
From among the multitude of Swiss ski resorts, here are a few
of the best known:
The village of Zermatt in Valais was the base for the first
pioneering assaults on the iconic Matterhorn in the 1860s. The first
successful ascent of the Matterhorn was in 1865 and cost four lives.
The Matterhorn towers over the ski resort, which has 245km of runs,
a lot of which are reasonably challenging.
There are no cars in Zermatt, so you have to get around either
by horse drawn sleighs or electric taxis. Its relative isolation
means that Zermatt is rarely too busy, and the Klein Matterhorn
(known alternatively as Matterhorn Glacier Paradise) is high enough
to ski all year round.
The eastern canton of Graubünden is home to two superb skiing
areas, Davos-Klosters, and St Moritz. Davos and Klosters
are nine kilometres apart, but are covered by the same ski pass.
You can save a little bit of money by only getting the pass for
one part.
The pass for both areas is about 60 Sfr for adults. Between them
they have 315km of runs. Davos has more nightlife, but Klosters
is the more serene and charming, and is a popular destination for
members of the British royal family.
St Moritz is the place to be seen. It is one of the most
expensive, glitzy and fashionable places to ski in the world. There
are various downhill runs, mostly of an intermediate level, and
a day's pass for most of the area will cost you around 70
Sfr.
There are also extensive cross country runs. Every March, the prestigious
Engadine Ski Marathon begins here. It attracts thousands of competitors
each year, and they race over a distance of around 42km.
Apart from skiing and boarding, St Moritz is also host to all the
activities you might expect in a place of its character -
golf, fishing, paragliding, horse racing, all the health spas and
treatments you could want, as well as polo and cricket on ice and
various festivals throughout the year.
Sprawled over the Swiss/French Border in the canton of Valais,
the resort 'Les Portes du Soleil' ('gateway to the sun' or
'the gates of the sun') set around the hamlet of Champéry,
offers a humungous 650km of downhill ski runs serviced by over 200
ski lifts. There are also over 240km of trails for cross country
skiing, and eight snowboard parks. The day's ski pass costs in around
55 Sfr.
Just an hour's drive from the capital Bern
is Bernese Oberland's best skiing. The area is dominated by three
massive peaks, the Eiger (ogre) Mönch (monk) and Jungfrau (virgin).
Jungfraujoch is Europe's highest railway station. In all
there are over 200km of downhill runs, divided over the ski areas
of Grindelwald, Männlichen, Mürren and Wengen. A two day
ski pass for the whole region costs around 120 Sfr, or you can get
a cheaper one day pass which only covers certain parts. Wengen
and Mürren are both pretty car-free villages, but most
of Mürren's skiing is quite challenging and not really suited
to beginners.
Engelberg provides Central Switzerland's best skiing. Skiing
is centred around Mt Titlis, only one hour's train journey from
Lucerne. A day's pass costs 50-60 Sfr, but you can save quite a
lot of money if you are prepared to limit yourself to a smaller
area. There's a cable car to the top of Mt Titlis, and the more
adventurous can even take a bungee jump that drops down from the
cable car.
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