A Football Fan's Guide To Nuremberg

Nuremberg

John Duerden

"Nuremberg looks nice for tourists but when you know what goes on there it's not so nice as it's full of Nazis and fascists", Sophia had stated matter-of-factly back in Frankfurt, evoking images of black and white newsreels of torchlit parades, huge rallies and a place that has the misfortune to be synonymous with Nazism.

Such is the evocative picture that mention of the south German city conjures in the minds of people abroad and strippers from Frankfurt. On the train journey from Munich, the city of lederhosen, steins and sausage, to Bavaria's second city, it became apparent that another German stereotype was actually true – German trains do arrive on time.

It may have been only my second train journey in the central European country but as any visitor to England knows, that gives ample opportunity to experience problems.

Not in Germany however, from buying a ticket from staff who always (far too modestly) say they speak a ‘little English', to finding your seat and to arriving at your destination, rail travel in Germany is a pleasant and stress-free process - on the Inter City Express anyway.

The train is smooth, comfortable and roomy and after a very pleasant one hour and 40 minutes from Munich, it was almost a shame to get off as we pulled into Nuremberg Hauptbahnhof just before lunchtime.

Staying near the station in Frankfurt and Munich had been convenient because of, well, the station and the plethora of hotels that surrounded the building like satellites. The one at Nuremberg though, spills out its visitors onto the apron of the old town with nary a red-light or mediocre but comfortable place to stay in sight. My accommodation was a ten minutes tram ride that skirted around the edge of the walled ‘Altstadt' to the northern side of the city.

Crossing the street to the tram stop, a teenage girl berated me for jaywalking. "Das ist road, mein Herren!" she said but there did seem to be more than a trace of a smile and a joke in her eyes as she saw the surprise in mine.

My first encounter with a native Nuremberger was a memorable one and obviously in a city that saw its fair share of goose-stepping, jaywalking is frowned upon.

After dropping off bags, it was time to go to the Frankenstadion, the rather scarily named home of the struggling FC Nuremberg situated to the south-east of the city in Luitpoldhain Park, again easily reachable by tram, bus or subway.

The place has a slightly eerie air and just before the tramline reaches the stop, the lines become covered by grass.

Disembarking, one is immediately faced with the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelande - a mouthful and a museum about the Nazi period and the city's role in it that is built into one of the remaining buildings from the era. An Albert Speer special that was going to be the new coliseum but the huge edifice was never finished.

Walking to the right and down the immense 1930's-built, Grosse Strasse, one can see the World Cup stadium rising above the trees to the left. As an arena it is fine rather than impressive as it has a rather mismatched look. However, it is interesting to see the presence of small standing areas behind the goals.

The English fans that head here for the second game in Group B would probably jump at the chance to jump up and down as their strongly-fancied team takes on Trinidad and Tobago in the 950 year-old city.

Those fans interested in history, for the right and not 'The Right' reasons, will find much of the more modern kind to occupy them nearby. If that isn't enough, this also seems like a good time to mention that I had one of the best kebabs ever and quite possibly the smoothest and most delicious beers in history – both on the same day.

The old Zeppelin field, a familiar sight was the site for many parades and rallies and is situated next door to the World Cup arena. The dilapidated place is still used for racing though the stands at either end have fallen into disrepair, with weeds reaching waist height.

The world once listened intently to radio broadcasts from this place; at times hanging on Hitler's every word in his annual speeches from the place to learn what would happen next in Europe and beyond. However, what power resided here has long gone and the atmosphere is a sorry one.

"Of course, we're ashamed of what happened in this city," said Paul Schmidt, a long-suffering Nuremberg fan who can't wait for the competition and has tickets to the Japan-Croatia game.

"We don't shy away from it. We built a museum about it to show people what happened and why it happened. We are a proud people, all Franconians are. We are proud of our city and how we've rebuilt it since the war."

The old city has been lovingly restored since the pummeling it received from allied bombers and it is a delightful place to wander around - truly delightful, a walk back in time through streets that almost seem to come out of fairy tales. Hansel and Gretel can't be found but three girls of high school age can and they are indifferent to the coming summer.

"I don't know about football. I guess it's good that we have the World Cup here but it doesn't affect me," said one.

John Duerden

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Fan's Guide To Munich

Zeppelin Field, Nuremberg	Nuremberg Stadium

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