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South Africa Travel + Tourism Guide: Indian Durban

The Indian Population in Durban

Mariam Noronha

Durban is home to the largest Indian population outside India. Glimpses of India are visible in the sights, smells and sounds of this South African city on the southern coast. Here is a look at the history, religion and culture of the Indian Diaspora in Durban.

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History

Most people of Indian origin in South Africa are descended from the first batch of Indians who the British brought to South Africa as indentured laborers to work on sugarcane plantations in Natal in 1860. Contrary to common belief that these migrants were only plantation workers, many of them worked in the railways, dockyards, domestic and municipal services and coal mines in Northern Natal. Many other Indian South-Africans are descended from Indian traders who migrated from areas around Gujarat.

Indian Townships

Apartheid legislation like the Group Areas Act prevented Indians from residing in the Orange Free State and this led to the creation of Indian townships. Chatsworth is one such large township which was created in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Now a fully-fledged suburb of Durban, the area continues to have a predominantly Indian population. Pockets of extreme poverty together with the wealth and affluence accompanying industrial growth and infrastructure development in modern day Chatsworth are a paradox created by years of racial segregation.

Apartheid Movement

Apart from restrictions on their movements, Indians were at the receiving end of racial discrimination in other matters such as education and employment. Until the 1970s when the University of Durban-Westville (now part of the University of KwaZulu-Natal) was built with a dollar for dollar contribution from Indians and the government, Indian students had to take a ferry ride to Salisbury Island where an abandoned prison housed their university.

Indians played a significant role in the anti-apartheid struggle and some of them contested and won the elections which were held in 1994. After pledging their support to white parties like the New National Party and the Democratic Alliance during the early days of the post-apartheid period, many Indians lent their support to the African National Congress (ANC) in the 2004 elections.

Languages

New generation Indian South-Africans use English as their first language. Indian languages like Hindi, Tamil, Telugu, Gujarati and Urdu are spoken at home. Classes are also conducted to nurture and encourage the use of these languages by youngsters.

Religions

The majority of Indian South-Africans are Hindus. Muslims, Christians, Zoroastrians and Buddhists are also found among Indians in South Africa.

Areas of Interest

Temples and mosques dot Durban’s cityscape and are known for their architecture and rich heritage.

Temples

Temples in South Africa were established as a point of socialization and celebration of festivals by once indentured families of plantation workers who built them in the form of a simple shelter for their deity. This, they believed, would help them cope with the vagaries of life in a foreign land.

• The Umgeni Road Temple Complex dating back to 1883 is the oldest and largest temple complex in South Africa. The central shrine and architecture of the complex which provides for all traditional forms of Hinduism have been built on the lines of the temple architecture of South India.

• Islamic, Victorian and North Indian influences are visible in the architecture of the Durban Hindu Temple in Somtseu Road.

• Eviction during apartheid compelled the Indian community to abandon the eight temples of Cato Manor in Bellair Road. Regular religious activities are now carried on at the temples.

• Shree Siva Subramanium Alayam and the Shree Muruga Alayam are two other temples located in Clairwood.

Mosques

• The Juma Masjid on Grey Street with a floor area of 975 square meters and a capacity of 4,500 worshippers is the largest mosque in the Southern Hemisphere.

• Riverside Soofie Mosque and Mausoleum, located on the banks of the Umgeni River is a national monument.

• The period style buildings of Queens Bridge Mosque, North Coast Road and the West Street Mosque are both Edwardian interpretations of Islamic architecture.

• The twin minarets and intricate ceiling of the Kenville Road Mosque, Sea Cow Lake have been inspired by the mosque architecture of India and Nairobi.

• The Bayview Muslim Cultural Society Mosque and Zanazibarian Mosque, located in the predominantly Indian township of Chatsworth have a large Zanzibari following.

Bazaars

The aroma of herbs, spices and curries assails visitors in the Indian and herbal markets of the Indian district and Grey Street areas. The bazaars bustle with Indian women in traditional attire and traders vending handicrafts and traditional medicines.

Indian Influences on Media and Entertainment

Bollywood films and Indian television programs are popular with the Indian Diaspora. Large movie theatre chains like Ster-Kinekor regularly screen Bollywood films and DVD and video versions are also widely available. Indian television programs are broadcast by the South African Broadcasting Corporation's SABC 2 television channel while Hindi Television channels like Sony, B4U, Zee TV and Tamil channels like Sun TV and KTV are provided by DStv satellite television service.

The "Gandhian" Connection

The South Africa Heritage's Phoenix Settlement, located 14 miles from Durban, is the place where Gandhi developed his philosophy of passive resistance. In 1904, he purchased 100 acres of land to establish the settlement, a home ground for the publication of the "Indian Opinion" in English, Hindi, Gujarati and Tamil.

Gandhi's three room house with a portico has been rebuilt and is now a museum. While Gandhi moved on to Johannesburg it was his son Manilal who stayed on and edited the "Indian Opinion" for 36 years until his death. The settlement was reopened in 2000 and is now home to about 20,000 people known as the "Bambayi" community.

Whether it is the aromatic spices and cuisine on offer in bustling bazaars or Hindu worshippers on Battery Beach, the Indian influence on every aspect of life in Durban is indeed hard to miss.

Hotels in Durban

Balmoral Hotel - 4 Star Hotel
Beverley Hills Sun Hotel - 5 Star Hotel
City Lodge Hotel - 3 Star Hotel
Holiday Inn Garden Court Marine Parade - 3 Star Hotel
Holiday Inn Garden Court South Beach - 3 Star Hotel
Protea Edward Hotel - 4 Star Hotel
Royal Hotel - 5 Star Hotel
Northern Sun Elangeni Hotel - 4 Star Hotel
Tropicana Hotel - 4 Star Hotel

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