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Ukraine Trains
Trains in Ukraine
Cross Country Rail Travel In Ukraine
The trains that criss-cross Ukraine (not to mention the remainder of the former USSR) are not only considerably cheaper than their British or American counterparts, they are somehow more comfortable and, importantly, way more efficient.
While the Soviet bloc was being deconstructed down to its last little pieces, the trains kept on running, and Ukraine inherited its share of Russia's romantic railways.
Ukraine's trains remain a vital link today, although travellers still need to allow two days to traverse the country from Lviv close to the Polish border in the west to Kharkiv near the border with Russia in the east.
'Days' is a little misleading in this sense because as with much European rail travel such long distance journeys are best managed through the night. Therefore, anyone wishing to travel the width of Ukraine should allow for an overnight train to Kiev in the centre of the country before embarking on a second overnighter to Kharkiv. A test even for rail enthusiasts.
The north-south train lines are invariably quicker because of their connections with Moscow, although almost 2000 kilometres of new track are being laid in preparation for Euro 2012.
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Domestic Train Services in the Ukraine
Cities closer to Kiev can be reached within daytime hours, and all major cities have daily routes to the capital. Smaller trains (elektrichki) connect regional hubs, but this is an entirely different system to the national railway, and hence ticketing is different and speeds and comfort substantially inferior.
Sleeping onboard is considered to be as safe as elsewhere in Europe, which means that you have to be watchful of your belongings rather than worried.
If you're sharing a compartment (you will be unless you're travelling luxury class), strike up conversation early on and share your food and experiences with your fellow travellers.
As the Ukrainian saying goes: "Leave home for a day; take enough bread for a week."
However, don’t expect to see a great deal of the beautiful Ukrainian scenery from your vantage point - and not just because most of your long journeys will take place at night. The smoke and dirt from the years of use have clogged up the view from the windows of the train, and if you’re lucky enough to have a clean carriage, strategically planted trees alongside the tracks used to be deployed to prevent snooping tourists from spying Soviet secrets. Nowadays it’s still a little bit little gliding through a leafy tunnel, but you can’t doubt you’re experiencing the real Ukraine.
Train Services in Ukraine
There are three types of train services. Express has aeroplane-style seating and travels much faster than the ordinary mainline services, but you pay extra and these carriages are only available on the major cross-country routes.
The third option is the elektrychka, which are the electric trains that connect rural areas to the cities and each other. These usually leave from a separate part of the station.
For overnight travel, there are generally three types of ticket classes. SV is luxury class, meaning that the compartment will have just two bunks, but these first-class couchettes are often sold out well in advance of departure.
Second class (coupe) is the standard that most foreign visitors plump for: four couchettes per compartment, meaning more coming and going but a livelier experience and at half the price.
Economy class means rows of bunks altogether and is the cheapest option.
Ukrainian train stations are more grandiose than many of their more modern contemporaries, although that doesn't mean that they're lacking in terms of services.
Most have left luggage facilities (the symbol for them is a suitcase with a key above it), secure lockers, or both, and larger stations have first-class waiting areas, which house comfy chairs and TVs, air conditioning, heating and guards.
You do need a valid rail ticket to enter, but as a last resort such centres can offer a decent night's rest.
At The Station
Ukrainian rail stations (voksal) are busy, hectic places in the big cities and attract their fair share of hawkers and pickpockets. Only Kiev and Odessa print their rail schedules in Latin script, though this may change for Euro 2012. Plan for long queues at the ticket office and, if possible, have your destination written in Ukrainian script and your passport showing your Ukraine visa stamp.
Ukraine Rail Ticket Types
There are three main classes of tickets on Ukrainian trains: CB (es-vay) is luxury class with two sleeping berths within the compartment and tend to sell out quickly, Kyne (coupe) has four sleeping berths and platskart is third class and very much so - think crowded and uncomfortable.
International Train Connections with Ukraine
There are overnight trains from Kyev to Warsaw (16 hours) and Krakow (19 hours) in Poland, Berlin (38 hours), Moscow (10-15 hours depending on the type of train), and St. Petersburg.
Ukraine Rail Passes
Raileurope offers a number of flexible rail passes for Ukraine and Poland.
Useful Ukrainian Rail Links & Resources
Register and book tickets on Ukraine's rail system at www.e-kvytok.com.ua
European Train Information
Trains in Austria
Trains in Germany
Trains in Poland
Trains in Switzerland
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