Watching the South Korean team warm-up for the friendly game with Sweden, munching the jam and cheese sandwiches that the nice people in Seoul World Cup Stadium always provide (not separate sandwiches but jam 'n'cheese - together - a surprisingly tasty combination but not a patch on the sushi that Daejeon hands out) the determination and concentration of the players is apparent.
The players out on the pitch about forty minutes before kick-off are split into two groups. The ten outfield starters go to one side and non-starters to the other. After a little running, the ten split into two groups of five and play a game of "keep-ball" in a small circle.
Ahn Jung-hwan stands out, this kind of game obviously suits him, his white soles flashing in the crisp Seoul November evening as he moves quickly and nimbly around. The players often do a similar kind of warm-up in training but just before an important preparation game for Germany, the session is more serious, there is less talking and laughing; minds are focused on the game ahead.
They are watched by Dick Advocaat and Pim Verbeek standing with arms folded by the tunnel. The Dutch pair don't get too involved, they need to save their voices for the game, when Advocaat never stops shouting.
Neither do the Red Devils - was there ever such an impressive group of supporters? When the teams come out, the fans cheer and raise the roof of the modern arena. During the South Korean national anthem, the Red Devils behind the goal in the North Stand unfurl a massive Korean flag - it is always a fantastic sight.
The sounds are equally inspiring with noise levels up there with the loudest in the world. The fans never stop singing, dancing or jumping up and down. If the game is boring - not the case against Sweden or Serbia and Montenegro four days later, one's eyes are drawn to the mass of red behind the goal in the North Stand.
The game itself was an encouraging one. The hosts took the lead after just seven minutes as Ahn Jung-hwan fired home a volley from the edge of the area but just a minute later, Sweden, missing Zlatan Imbrahimovic, Henrik Larsson and Freddie Ljungberg, hit back through Johan Elmander.
South Korea continued to make most of the running and were back in front just six minutes after the restart as Kim Young-chul headed home his first ever goal for his country from Park Ji-sung's free-kick. Unfortunately for the fans and the ever-gesticulating Advocaat, the Europeans were back on level terms within five minutes, this time courtesy of Ajax striker Marcus Rosenberg.
South Korea were the better team, though the Swedes were admittedly understrength, missing Ibrahimovic, Larsson and Ljungberg. However, the aggression of the hosts, with attacks coming from all areas of the field, was too much for their yellow-clad opponents to handle at times and despite an inability to hold on to a lead, the reporters at the post-match press conference are happy.
So is Dick Advocaat who, while lamenting defensive lapses and promising improvements, is pleased with the way the team controlled the game and created chances against a solid team ranked tenth in the World in FIFA's rankings.
Lars Lagerback is very happy too, a slightly surprising reaction as the extremely polite Swedish coach admits that Korea were much the better side but explains his satisfaction is more to do with the fact that the game was a perfect test for the team. He mentions 2002, the reporters mention 2002, the words hang in the air in the interview in the basement of the modern arena. Every good performance recalls memories of that glorious summer; every poor display is compared unfavorably to a time that already seems like a dream. The only person who doesn't talk about it is Advocaat.
If the Dutchman wants his players to do his talking for him then we are hearing good things at the moment. Four days later, Serbia and Montenegro were beaten more comprehensively than the 2-0 scoreline would suggest. Lee Dong-gook scored a sumptuous second after taking the ball from 20 yards out from his own goal to the same distance from the European goal and then blasting the ball home with a shot that measured 107 kph - one of the Lion King's best.
That strike aside, the two most satisfying aspects of the game were how the defence had improved their communication and co-ordination after the Sweden game and the fact the four new faces in midfield and attack slotted in almost seamlessly into the framework of the well-organised team.
Good performances in friendlies don't mean that the team is going to take the world by storm next summer but do indicate that progress is being made restoring the feel-good factor that has been missing since, well, you know when.
As the Taeguk Warriors European-based stars head back west on Thursday, they all have good things to say about their new boss. Park Ji-sung talks about a better atmosphere, Lee Young-pyo mentions restored confidence and Ahn Jung-hwan, who doesn't seem to be able to enter an airport without wearing some outlandish headgear, talks about improved training and organisation.
It's still early days for the Dutchman but as 2005 comes to an end for the national team, he has at least succeeded in turning peoples' heads away from 2002 and towards what promises to be an exciting 2006.
